Spark or Flood?

Picked up my JD 1010. The guy I bought it from said it has been running and with some fresh gas my boys did get it going and loaded, then unloaded at the house. When I got home, we got it started, but it ran rough. A little adjusting the spring screw on the front side of the carb bowl got it running pretty smooth and fast. Then it dies. Much cranking and choking in and out and even emptying the carb bowl (not the gas settling bowl) and we got it going several more times. Gas coming out where the air goes in the carb. Still problems cranking.

Checked spark (screwdriver in spark plug wire near ground) and did not get any. Later it started again, died and would not start, but flooded. Checked spark again and nothing at the coil (recently replaced) and then noting at the distributer cap.

What do I have here? Flooding due to weak spark due to something in the distributor cap? Possibly the points and condenser. Does anyone convert to electronic?

Wonderful tractor and easy to work one. Recommends on best way to go.

I just went through this myself, If the tractor has been setting up any length of time with a possibility of having ethanol then the needle is probably shredded, I would get a rebuild kit for the carb, you probably wont need a float but get the two gaskets and needle and seat. Now for the ignition side i would start with the points and use some emery paper or very fine sand paper and sand between the contacts on the points, then sand the distributor contacts inside the cap, then sand the end, and top of the rotor button. This should help get you going, you may want to come back later and replace anything severely worn.

Rainseeker wrote:

Gas coming out where the air goes in the carb. Still problems cranking.

That’s the problem that I had come to find out it was a stuck float needle. So I had the carb rebuilt and it solved all my problems.
Check out the video below, that’s what was happening before the carb was rebuilt on my 1010.

That is it. this morning I went out and tried to get it started again. Still had trouble. Plenty of gas, but no spark. Sometimes it would fire some. Started checking voltage and wires and found a loose wire (put in a battery the day before), battery clamp and then cleaned the distributor cap, point and such. Still problems. Found another condenser tied to the outside terminal on the side of the distributor. Found this second one was likely shorting out where it was clamped. Pulled it and was back to the put-put-putt trying to start or start and run for short time. Got it moving, but it would only run about two minutes with the throttle open and the choke all the way out.

Parked it and went online and ordered a carb rebuild kit.

Hey, to replace the points and condenser, where do you order one from?

Since you said the coil has recently replaced,have you checked the coil polarity? The coil primary wire (small wire that goes to the side of the distributor) should match the ground of the battery. In other words if your tractor is 12v neg. ground the minus - wire should go to the distr. If this is reversed all the spark energy has to go through the block,jump from the ground of the spark plug, up through the center electrode and back through the plug wire. Since these tractors were pos ground and later converted,i have seen this happen many times with similar symptoms. No doubt you need a carb rebuild and ignition parts. Good luck hope this helps