jd 1010 no motion once warm

Thought when tractor got warm and no longer would move that the clutch needed repair but some "oldtimers" stated change the transmission filter. However according to JD (unable to find a listing-disconnect and supply part number) and the little research done it has no such filter. So perhaps the clutch is the issue? The pulling power was weak before this failure to move occured so perhaps also a clue to clutch as the fault? Changing the fluid did seem to help in that now when warm it will rock back n forth ever so slightly when pop the clutch rather than remain motionless. I did not run any cleaner/kerosene and perhaps should have and would have done so if had a copy of the service manual in hand for the paticular procedure details.

The fluids were milky in the tranny n final drives along with one final drive a bit fluid low and black in color at the end of drain.

The engine starts up after just a second of turning the key.


Any ideas?

If is the clutch robbing the power and now motion, any assistance for servicing it? Appears much more involved than any vehicle I've replaced a clutch plate on. Also any guidance for repalcing the brake disc this winter appreciated.

How much free play is there in the clutch. You should be able to move the pedal a short ways before you feel any resistance from the clutch.

Hey this is for the 1010 row crop utility but if may be some good starting point for reference on flushing out the transmission oil.

I guess the clutch free play seems proper on the release of the pedal. That is to say the tranny engages when the pedal is about 3/4 inch from fully up. I'll have to play with it some more to comment on pushing the pedal down. With the engine off I can't feel when it is engaging/releasing.
When apply brakes without clutch while cold the tractor continues moving rather than force it into the failed motion seen once the fluid warms a bit. I know that means something to the experienced. My guess is such means the clutch is ok and flushing the tranny is my best hope for avoiding splitting where engineers failed to see a need for filters/screens in their early designs.


Thank you very much for the picture. Another I could use is procedure to test why boom lowers when tractor is off. I can't remember which plug your to uninstall after supporting the boom, shut off engine, release pressure, remove support. Nor what the resulting boom drop indicated as failure point. Something about inner seals n pump? Or is such procedure only for the rear lift arms?

Another diagnostic procedure I could use is for the transmission pump. With tractor running and tranny fluid at proper level when remove the fill plug the fluid pumps out of the fill hole. I thought this fluid motion might indicate the pump works (in a radiator such motion indicates water pump quality) but I am told it might mean the pump is broken. So instead of listening at the open fill hole at present time I placed a screw driver on the plug and listened. I didn't hear any squeals but I don't know what the proper sound should be.


Is that a dual PTO pictured or do singles also have two covers?

Apparently bits of the brake have made it into the transmission

Hi, there is no pump for the transmission fluid, the transmission is lubricated by being submerged in fluid and by the movement of the gears. The pump only runs the hydraulics and the power steering if you have that option.

Below is a photo of my transmission on the 1010 RU

Not only is there no pump in the transmission, but this is a manual transmission so fluid would have no bearing on whether it moves when hot or cold. That's why I was thinking clutch.

the boom doesn't drop fast when the tractor is off. I only noticed a slight drop with weight in the bucket over a maybe hour of time. When empty, the bucket takes days to lower an inch. But ever since I pulled the fill plug on the hydro in the test procedure I asked for assistance with the boom appears to not move however the results may change when a load is on it. The boom motion is jerky and seemed to be better after topping off the hydro fluid (and during slower idle) but perhaps that system could benefit from a flush of gush. I'll have to read the book miles away to procede with such although at least two lines sweat so perhaps they also are taking air into the system.

You know how transmission fluid is a great substance to soak a rusted or otherwise locked up tool? Well that is one of the reasons I decided to drain n refill the "milk n gush" with hydro fluid before flushing with kerosene. I was about to procede with the flushing after a few runs with the new fluid wasn't doing the trick. I pulled the drain plug and the plugs forward of it looking for a screen. I found no screen but when I filtered the limited released fluid I found a piece which looks like a screen all smashed up into like a long ball (1/2 inch). Also a approx 2" piece of black rubber like substance. I thought perhaps they were pieces of the brake disk but am told the brake parts can't get into any other housing fluids. And I also did pull the fill plug with the engine running and perhaps several ounces of fluid flowed out. Maybe I should run a magnet over where it spilled out. Remember how one side of the final drive was fluid low and black? Well maybe the new fluid broke something free because the tractor now moves just fantastic, and I now notice a bigger difference between high and low. I did change the engine oil and filter but surely wasn't the cure. The engine oil didn't look horrible.

Now I plan to flush the tranny and final drives so it will be interesting (and slow) to filter the fluid and kerosene. Thanks again Jd1010ru for the pictures and both of you for your time and kindness to post.

I can hardly wait to go to the tractor graveyard for a pto shaft etc.

Your more than welcome If you have any more questions just ask away.