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 Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion

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Skinny
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PostSubject: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:40 pm

Last edited 12-27-11

Please review and feel free to make corrections. I will edit as necessary.

12v coil already on tractor.

This is what I have come up with by using the JD Service Manual, myfordtractor, Ehow, various other sites and forums, and a little bit of head-scratching.

I substituted a voltmeter for a ammeter. Seems to make more sense knowing the voltage.

The #2 from the alternator is wired into the lighting leg from the key switch. I don't know if it matters or not where it is tied in. #2 is supposed to "tell" the alternator how much voltage to make. I don't know about that, just what I read.

#1 serves to energize the alternator so it can make voltage. Supposedly it is better to run it through a lamp and/or reisistor. Not sure of the specifices but it is supposed to work better that way. It also serves to provide a visual if the alternator quits working (i.e. you just threw the belt...no voltage supply and no water pump). The purpose of the parallel resistor is to backup the light in case the bulb burns out. The bulb should come on when the key is turned (engine off). When the engine is running the the light should go off because it is getting fed 12v from both sides. If the alt. stops it is grounded and the light should come on letting you know there is trouble. Again, just what I read. I haven't even tried this yet. I'm not even real sure what #1 and #2 really do but I'll trust those that do. I know a lot of people just jumper it to the hot post but if this way works better I'm all for it. (refer to myfordtractor for the discussion)

I am also not sure the rear floodlight goes to FL but I'm guessing that's what FL stands for.

Edit 12-27-11 NOTE: If you use an OEM replacement switch (positive ground)you will need to disconnect the resistor from the starter tab on the back of the switch and the switch's case. If you do not it will cause a short. If you use an aftermarket switch of the same style it should be fine as it was designed for negative ground. See post 12-27-11 below.


Again, this is just for review. When I find out what works or doesn't I'll update and call it good. Obviously there are some alternate routes that could be taken. Mostly it is drawn this way for ease of reading.

Wire gauges and fuse size are purely subjective. I usually over wire everything, can't hurt. Fuses are based on Alternator amps (37A in this case) and how much I am willing to let a load pull. Fuse to #2 on alt. is just a guess and probably too much.

If you choose to use this you do so at your own risk...me too.




Last edited by Skinny on Wed Dec 28, 2011 1:33 am; edited 5 times in total
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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Mon Dec 05, 2011 8:27 pm

Hey skinny, I was wondering how your alternator diagram is coming along? As far as I know you may have created the only one for the 1010 series LOL.

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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:29 am

Just finishing up getting the components together. I hope to start wiring this week.

It's the end of the semester so I'm pretty swamped trying to close it out. Christmas break is coming up so maybe I can really jump on it.

I'll post updates and some pics as I go along.

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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:42 am

I'm new to the forum, and I had a problem viewing your diagram. I can compare it to my tractor once I see it, and offer suggetions. I had to study the charging circuit in converting to electonic ignition and solving battery/ignition issues, so I might be able to help. I do know I replaced the resistor and kept it in the circuit. My tractor has a voltmeter in the dash, which I don't think was a standard feature, and maybe somebody added it before I got my tractor - therefore, I might not have the stock wiring (I have a 1010 Special (RUS)).

Anyway, help me view the diagram and I'll give it a go....
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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:49 pm

Hum. Some reason it dropped the link. Could be I punched the wrong key, who knows?

It should be back up.

The Brown Santa just brought me a coil and ignition. I'm going to try an eletronic ignition. May end up going back to points but I really hate tinkering with them. The ones on my old Harley about drove me to drink. Changed over to electronic and never looked back.


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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:39 pm

Nice diagram!

You will like the electronic ignition. It made a huge difference on my tractor in terms of solving starting problems- especially in winter, and I think it runs better. I remember reading somewhere that the 1010 had a design issue with the distributor, engine compression/firing chamber design, and carburetion that caused insufficient spark in cold conditions and electronic ignition solved the problem (much hotter spark). Also, the 1010 used up a set of points way too fast, which I can verify. EI has worked well for me so far.

Depending on your E.I. kit, it should have some decent schematics that will help verify your diagram.

I'll check my wiring and post again. Good luck!!!!
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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:13 am

Finally got most of the wiring done.

I put in a fuse block in. Buss 15600-06-20 or 15600-06-21 (one is short the other is long). I thought about just using those inline ATC fuse holders but figured I'd give this a try.

I modified the block as I wanted to run circuits back and forth and not just one in. I CAREFULLY pried open the the case. You have to push down the little tabs in the slots in the back then pry the tabs out. Just take a good look at it and don't force anything any more than you you have to. When you get it open all the little spade tabs will fall out. No big deal just keep up with them. They are made to fit on a specific side. Took a little head scratching to figure that one out. The main will be a long flat piece that connects all the fuse sockets together. I cut the flat main between the first and second row of sockets. Now I have 2 fuse sockets attached to the main lug and 4 that are isolated from the main. I slopped on some JB Weld to hold everything in place and put it back together.

I ran my main power to the lug, installed a 30A fuse and then ran it to my ignition switch. I ran a wire to the hot post on the alternator from the other lug (30A). Now all the main power runs through that side of the block.

Out of my ignition switch (L) spade (lights) I ran a wire back to one of the isolated spades and installed a 20 amp fuse. That is my power into the isolated side. I then ran a wire to my light switch off of one of the remaining spades through a 20 amp fuse and wired my lights normally*. A wire was run to the number 2 post on the alternator and another off the remaining lug to the oil light/sender unit (both 20A right now since thats what I had but I'll switch them out later, 10 and 1 amps respectively.) That used up all the lugs. (I was really using the fuses to hold the sockets in place until the JB Weld set up)

Now that sounds like a lot of fuses, and it is, but I have isolated several circuits and if something shorts I can check the fuses. Fuses are cheap and easy to replace. We'll see if I have created more of a problem. In some ways I'm afraid I may have complicated it more than necessary. Oh well, if so, it is not that hard to take out the block and rewire it more simply.

Here is the fuse block. I still have some tidying up to do. I have a nasty habit of leaving myself extra wire...and then some... just in case I need to cut into it later. I will figure out a way to wrangle all the wires.


You can see the red main from the starter solenoid coming in from the back of the picture. You can just see the end of the post on the left side of the block. The green fuses are the 30A. Top spade is coming in from the alternator, bottom lug is going to ignition switch.

The wire coming into the top middle lug is power from the ignition switch (L spade). The top right is going out to the light switch (no fuse in it). The middle bottom (wht wire) is going to the oil light/sender. The brown wire is going to the #2 terminal on the alternator. All of these should be hot when the key is on.

The ceramic reisistor on the left side is .5 ohm. I used the suggestion from myfordtractors.com of subtracting the coil ohms (3.5 in my case (tested)) from 4 ohms. The wire out the top goes to the coil. Of the three wires attached to the bottom spade, one is from the ignition switch (ignition spade), one to the voltmeter, and one to the generator light/10 ohm resistor (wired parallel) then on to #1 terminal of the alternator.

Here's a shot from the other side.


I still have to wire the dash and headlights to the light switch (green wire in the back). I have the wires run, I just need to tie them together.


I replaced the old coil with a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil which has a higher ohm rating than the old one so the ceramic resistor had to be changed out.

I ran all the wires in a loom. You can see the end of it in the picture above. The blue wire is running to the solenoid from the ignition switch.


*Two 35w headlamps (3 amps each), one 35w rear flood (3 amps), and one rear aux. socket (up to 10 amps) totals up to 19 amps thus the 20 amp fuse. 14ga wire is rated at 32 A so I should blow a fuse long before I fry my wiring. I suspect the aux. socket, if used, will be for aux. running lights or implement lights during transport so they shouldn't pull much.

Here's the starter with the loom. When everything gets put back together the loom and cable will get tucked in.


Getting closer to seeing if it will crank.

I cleaned up the diagram. Again, use at your own risk. This is yet untested.

edit 12/14/11 because I don't know my directions.


Last edited by Skinny on Wed Dec 14, 2011 7:33 pm; edited 3 times in total
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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:10 pm

Thanks for posting your updates, You are doing and outstanding job on this and i know this will help out Many people who are in the same boat as you.

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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Wed Dec 28, 2011 1:24 am

Finally got around to seeing if it would crank.

We decided not to try to run with fuel tonight since it was later in the evening.

We did install the battery and turned the key. As soon as we hit the starter we blew the fuse to the starter switch. I took the switch out of the dash and examined, poked, and head scratched. Replace the fuse. I took off the lead to the light switch and turned the key. THE STARTER TURNED THE ENGINE OVER!! cheers Even had a little puff of compression out the stack.

I did a little more examining, left the light switch disconnected, and put the starter switch back in the dash. Gave it a twist and promptly blew the fuse again.

Now I was really confused. I went through everything again and tried to figure out why the switch was grounding. Since the whole thing has been changed over from a positive ground and an alternator replaced the generator it takes a little sorting out. Not too hard but you've got to pay attention to what used to be and what is now.

The replacement ignition switch was OEM specs...hmmm...OEM was postived ground. There was a small resistor running from the Starter tab to the metal switch case. When this switch was installed with a positive ground the resistor may have provided the power to the starter. Now with a negative ground it was causing a short. With fingers crossed and a pair of needle nose pliers I removed the resistor, reinstalled the switch, and turned the key.

IT CRANKED AGAIN and the fuse didn't blow.

So lesson learned and passed on. If you get an OEM type ignition switch you will need to clip the resistor.

Tomorrow we see if it will start.

So far, so good on the diagram.
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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:25 am

Not ready to call the diagram finished or correct yet but the tractor did run today without any real electrical problems.

The gen light stays on even though the alternator is putting out 14+ volts. May be due to the battery being drained while trying to start. We'll see what happens when the battery is charged up.

Still need to get the lights hooked up but that is a minor issue and may have to wait until the tin is painted.


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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:05 pm

This is now a sticky Post.

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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Sun Mar 25, 2012 10:54 pm

Just wanted to ask in regard to the Generator light and Resistor, Did you use the OEM light? My light has a power in with a ground connected to the case of the light. We are trying to figure out this wiring portion. Any Pictures or info would help a ton. Thanks!!
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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Sun Mar 25, 2012 10:55 pm

Sorry one other thing. How does the Electronic ignition wire in? Same deal any pics would be great.
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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:22 pm

We used an "OEM" light from JD but it has two terminals. I'll have to check to see if it is grounded. That could be my problem with it staying lit. The tractor is over at my son's house but I'm pretty sure there is a plastic insert that keeps it isoloated from the dash.

Electronic ignition was installed per instructions. Just pay attention to which terminal is pos/neg on the coil and hook up the appropriate wire from the ignition.

In case I misunderstood your question. The electronic ignition drops into the distributer after you remove the points and condensor. Pretty straight forward. The new wires run through the original hole and wire up to the coil. Pretty simple.

Pertronix Ignitor



Not a great picture of the coil but the white and red wire come from the electronic module in the distributor. If you look to the far left you can just see the edge of the distributor. The small rubber boot for the wires is sticking out from the base of the distributor. The brown wire you can just see coming out of the loom and connects to the pos. terminal of the coil. This wire is from the ignition post on the ignition switch.


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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:27 pm

Ordered the electronic ignition and the Flame thrower Coil. Been looking at the websites for alternator, can't really come to a conclusion on the "need" for the light and resistor. The say the alternator just needs to sense a draw in the system so connect the #2 to a point in the wiring farthest from the alternator but after the battery. Is it to prevent backfeed?
Any thoughts?
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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:45 pm

The light is just to indicate if you drop the belt or the alternator stops working. If either happen then the alternator becomes the ground and the bulb lights. The resistor is there in the event the bulb burns out the alternator still gets the message to work. Both the bulb and resistor act to prevent backflow. You need one or the other.


At least that is my basic understanding of how it works.

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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Tue Mar 27, 2012 8:18 am

Gotcha, thanks again for the great post I hope to have the 1010 running this weekend for the first time in 4 yrs!
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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:32 pm

I think I ended up doing something wrong of getting the wrong alternator. Mine takes along time for it to "excite" so the tractor will fire up and as soon as I let the key return to run it dies. If you stay on the key and have the throttle wide open it will stay running. A bad way to start up........ Do you know what year or alternator I should of gotten mine is a 3Wire, Battery, terminal 1 and terminal 2

Thanks
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PostSubject: Re: Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion   Thu Oct 25, 2012 10:59 pm

Wow Jeep, I missed your post. My apologies. Of course this was the day after I started my new job so I'll use that as an excuse. Rolling Eyes

We used an AC/Delco (10si I believe) 37A 3-wire alternator. 37 amps is way more than needed but it was the smallest one we could find. It will probably never make 37A as we won't ever run the RPMs high enough. At the rated 2500 rpms it should make about 20-25A, still plenty.

We had a similar sounding problem. We tried to start and it would run real rough while we turned the key and worked the choke and throttle
Check to see if you have the plug wires in the right order and the order of the the distributor rotation. It's been too long since I looked but I believe the distributor spins counter clockwise. Easy enough to check, just crank the key briefly with the cap off and see which way it spins. Then set your plug wires in the correct order.

BTW. Don't ask me how I know this. Embarassed

Once the wires were in the correct rotational order it ran like a charm.

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PostSubject: 1010 generator testing   Sun Jun 01, 2014 7:04 pm

I just had my 1010 generator (2 brush) rebuilt because the F pole terminal insulator disintegrated and the wire broke. I reinstalled it today and want to make sure it was rebuilt right. I had the tractor running at ~1200 RPMs. When I measured the voltage across the F & A pole, I was only getting about 8volts. i was expecting 13 or more. Could they have rebuilt it for a 6volt system or is that OK?
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