1963 1010 RUS full throttle

I have been working on this tractor for a while. Always something different wrong with it. I finally rebuilt the carb. I adjusted it by sound and knew it just wasn't right. I bought a cheap tach for it and fine tuned everything. It will not idle at 450 rpm and I got the timing set correct. It stumbles a little when throttling up, but I can live with that. At full throttle it will run 2000 rpm. Is this correct? I was under the impression full would be 2500. I can move the lever going to the front of the motor and get it up to about 2800. I am guessing this is the governor or overrun. It never seems to kick in when under a load though. Is there a diagram or a way to adjust this with some specs?

I had all of this running pretty smooth. I didn't have a muffler on it when I did this. I installed just a plain old glass packed muffler on it (Cheap). Since installing it, the motor misses and sometimes dies. Like it is running out of gas. Full of gas with new filter and lines. Will adding the muffler make me have to go back and set timing and carb again?

I can't imagine that a glasspack muffler would create enough back pressure that it would make any difference in tune. Seems like something else might be going on. When it stumbles and starts to die will pulling on the choke a little cause the engine to pick back up?

Yes, the choke seems to help. I had it die completely today with the choke. Hard to tell if it was because I had the choke pulled too long or just because it was gonna die anyway. The work I did to the carb was without a kit. Everything I saw at TSC or Rural King didn't list as compatible with a 1010.

Restarting it after dieing always requires full choke.

Also the Carb is missing the ID plate. I know it is a "B" type, because the load adjustment is a large thumb screw. Is there a chart anywhere as to what carb they used on what tractors by year or serial number? I am looking for an actual rebuild kit instead of just taking it apart and cleaning everything up.

I finally got a rebuild kit that had everything correct except for the main jet. I cleaned the old one and installed all the other new components. Couldn't get idle below 1000 without it dieing. High speed 2000 rpm. It still misses and now backfires through the exhaust. I am not sure how a muffler and carb rebuild could cause this, but my next step is to retime the ignition. Am I on the right track?

Timing could be the problem and I would check/replace the points and condenser. Make sure you have a good hot blue spark at the plugs. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak. After you rule out any ignition problem and if it still persists, I would check the manifold vacuum.

Thanks! I will look into those. I also had bypassed the resistor going to the coil a long time ago. My '66 Mustang doesn't have a resistor, so why should the tractor, right? Haha I read that this could cause the points to foul out and make an engine backfire. I will check the points real good and if fouled put the resistor back in line when I put the new points and condenser on it.

Is there a vacuum diagram anywhere? I am not sure what a vacuum line would even run to on this old tractor since the distributor is mechanical advance.

Thanks for the help,
Wayne

Yes, I would go ahead and do the points and condenser and see what happens. It's probably the cause. I'm still running a resistor with my 12v coil even though the previous owner had put in electronic ignition (Petronics). It seems to always start well.

No vacuum lines that I know of . I was thinking more of a bad manifold gasket or a crack in the manifold. A vacuum check would also let you know about other problems such as a worn camshaft, burnt valves etc which I would think unlikely but possible given the symptoms.

I couldn't find the parts this afternoon. I got home and inspected the points. They were sparking all over the place. I sanded them with an emery board. I also pulled the plate and lubed the mechanical advance while I was that far into it. I also put the resistor back in place. I got it running smooth at 1200 rpm. Set the timing. Then worked the idle down. Lowest I could get it to run was 750 rpms. Set the timing again.

Full throttle came in about 1800 rpm. That's all I could get out of it. Power valve adjusted until the engine stumbled. Then opened it until it smoothed out. Then opened it another 1.5 turns.

It ran smooth like this while bush hogging. It just seems it needs a little more rpms on the top end.

The stumbling and missing got worse. I took the distributor off. I think I found the problem. It has play in the shaft, a broken spring that connects to a weight, 2 different spring wire sizes, and everything in the advance was pretty gummed up or rusted. I had always thought I had the delco distributor with a clip on cap. Now that I have everything cleaned up, the bottom says "Autolite" on it. Does anyone know what Autolite distributor was used on the 1963 1010? This one doesn't have an ID plate. Looking at the outside of it, it never had a plate screwed or riveted to it. There are no holes. I see no numbers anywhere on it. Can I buy the center bushing and new springs for it and if so, where?

According to the parts manual, I have the Presto lite IBT-4101 distributor. Looks like autolite or prestolite no longer supports or makes parts for this. Is there a more modern distributor I can use in its place?

Just as I figured out how to put a GM 4 cylinder coil pack and cam position sensor on this to make it run, I found an old distributor. I bought it for $75. Made 1 complete working distributor between the two. It runs good now and holds good timing. I still max out at 2000 RPM though. What controls this and how can I set it for an "overtravel" of a couple hundred more RPM when needed? According to the below, I am missing 100 at fast idle, then 700 to 500 in overtravel.

Engine speeds
Full load SAE standard PTO engine speed.........1900 rpm
Fast-idle....................................................2100 rpm
Slow-idle....................................................600 rpm
fast-idle in overtravel...................................2700 rpm
Rated load in overtravel...............................2500 rpm
Optimal PTO performance............................1900 RPM

Thank you. That worked great! I removed the connecting rod between the governor and the carb. I loosened the jam nut and screwed the shaft in making it shorter. After several tries, I got the 2700 to 2800 rpm I was looking for.

I tried to do it while running. After it revved to almost 4000, I shut it down quick! Never adjust while running!