Rear PTO leak

The rear PTO has a small leak that needs to be tended to. Whipped out the service manual, flipped to the single PTO section, read, read, read, seems simple enough except our PTO housing looks nothing like the manual.

The PTO housing is a cast part of the rear axle housing and sticks out about 6-8". The three bolts hold a coverplate on. It appears the PTO is part of the transmission.

Any idea how to change the seals on this type of PTO? I'm hesitant to pull off the rear coverplate to poke around lest all the tranny fluid flood out.

I don’t know what the back of yours look like but my PTO housing bolts on the back of the differential case. For the 1010 RU it bolts on the back with several bolts. If you look at the first photo the housing is on the bottom right and it appears to hold the seals and outer bearings.

I had the seals replaced in mine but A john Deere shot did it for me so all I have are a few photos.

I'll need to get some pictures. The RUS looks nothing like that. It is one cast piece and is integral with the axle housing. Just one big cast piece.

I thought at first I wrote this thread. I have a RUS with the same rear housing description as you have. Before I break open the whole rear end, I thought I would ask.

Thanks

iya0yas5 wrote:

I thought at first I wrote this thread. I have a RUS with the same rear housing description as you have. Before I break open the whole rear end, I thought I would ask.

Thanks

First off welcome to the fourm, Were glad to have you

Skinny can awnser this one better than me but i think if its just the outer seal thats leaking then i think you can pull out the old seal and install a new one. I know skinny said that his son had a special tool made.

We haven't gotten back to the PTO seal. The spring is very busy with me as a teacher...and having a Sr. graduating to boot this year.

I'm not for certain but I think on the RUS there may just be one seal. I'll have to check on this.

From what we have been told by a JD mechanic you pull the old seal out, with a hook of some type (I have a set of icepick like tools that are bent into several configurations). Once out you clean up the shaft, make sure no old seal or sludge is left behind (as best you can), and slip the new seal in. Now slip is a nice way of saying you may/will have to hammer it into place. My son had a cylinder made (although a piece of pipe of suitable diameter might work just as well) that fits over the shaft and fits pretty tight in the slot. The idea is to be able to hammer it all in with equal force around the whole seal. You should be able to feel/judge/divine/crystal ball when it drops back into the seat.

When we get it done I'll post the process (and pictures) and how it went...hopefully successfully.

Sorry we haven't gotten back around to it. I hate when life gets in the way.

I think I can get the seal out with a dental pick. The problem I have is the seal from the manual calls for a AM 253T which is a oil bearing. I bought one and think I may have to pull the cover. The OD of the opening around the shaft is too small to receive the OD of the seal. I am hoping for pictures before I rip mine apart. If I am first, I will post.

Well I dove into the project this weekend. First let me start by saying, do not remove the rear cover. I did and later realized I did not need to. On mine, a layer of green paint covered the end surrounding the pto shaft. With the cover off, I removed the layers of paint and observe a groove. With the help of a screw driver and a hammer, the cap came off with the oil seal.

I now need to find an oil seal with a 2.75" OD.


I was probably a good thing I removed the back cover, I found 2" of sludge in the bottom of the pan. On page 79 of the parts catalog, the picture shows item #27 as a plug. On mine, this is a seal which the PTO shaft runs through. finding this may be a challenge. If I find one, I will post the part number.

The dimensions for the seal are 1.375" x 2.839". I ordered seal #T 19388 T item number 12 on pg 83 from the part catalog. I pick it up tomorrow. I will advise if it worked.

That is the correct seal. Be careful tapping it into place.

iya0yas5 wrote:

That is the correct seal. Be careful tapping it into place.

Thanks for keeping us updated

hi,
new here but have worked on a few older tractors. when mine started to leak i drilled three small holes at 10 2 and 6 into the soft metal of the seal just behind the rubber sealing part. I started a sheet metal screw in these holes, then i used a flat bar and slowly went around the three and pried the seal out. Drive the new one in and i have no problems since